This past summer I spent four days in Piedmont, the northern Italy wine region famous for Barolo and Barbaresco. I wanted to understand the Nebbiolo grape, and the differences in Barolo and Barbaresco. Going to the place where the vineyards are planted and the wine is made is the best way to learn about this grape that only grows well in the region called the Langhe, a beautiful valley carpeted in vines up and down the gently rolling slopes, punctuated by hilltop villages. Of my four or five winery visits, my absolute favorite was Elvio Cogno, a small producer whose family vineyard and winery is located just outside the village of Barolo. I discovered Cogno at one of the Wine & Spirits top 100 tastings in San Francisco. In 2011 Cogno was the Winery of the Year. I kept the brochure with my tasting notes. When it came time to…
